When selecting the most suitable fabric for clothing or textile applications, it is essential to understand the fabric’s properties, structure, and the technologies used in its production. Fabrics can vary widely, influenced by factors like fiber type, yarn count, weaving methods, and even finish treatments. This article delves into the classification of fabrics, exploring how different materials and techniques affect the final product, and how yarn count and stitch count play a crucial role in determining fabric quality.
Classification of Fabrics
There are many ways to classify textile fabrics, and they can be categorized from different perspectives. The following are some common classification methods:
By Fiber Raw Material
Natural fibers: Such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk.
Man-made fibers: Such as viscose fiber and acetate fiber. They are usually made from natural macromolecular substances through chemical processing.
Synthetic fibers: Such as polyester (polyester fiber), nylon (nylon), acrylic fiber, and spandex. They are synthesized from chemical raw materials.
By Fiber Property
Hygroscopic fibers: Such as cotton and hemp, which have good hygroscopicity and air permeability.
Hydrophobic fibers: Such as polyester and nylon, which have poor hygroscopicity but fast drying speed.
Elastic fibers: Such as spandex, which has high elasticity and resilience.
By Fabric Structure
Woven fabrics: They are formed by interlacing warp and weft yarns, with a stable structure. Common ones include plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.
Knitted fabrics: They are formed by looping and interlooping yarns, with good elasticity and extensibility. Common ones include weft knitting and warp knitting.
Non-woven fabrics: They are made by bonding, hot pressing, etc. instead of traditional textile processes, and have good filtering and heat preservation properties.
By Fabric Use
Clothing fabrics: Used for making various types of clothing, such as cotton cloth, silk, and woolen fabrics.
Decorative fabrics: Used for interior decoration, such as curtains, bedspreads, and sofa fabrics.
Industrial fabrics: Used in industrial production, such as filter cloth, insulating cloth, and protective clothing fabrics.
By Fabric Processing Method
Dyed fabrics: Fabrics that are dyed before or after weaving.
Printed fabrics: Fabrics with patterns or designs printed on them.
Coated fabrics: Fabrics with one or more layers of materials coated on the surface, having functions such as waterproof and oil-proof.
By Fabric Function
Waterproof fabrics: Fabrics with waterproof performance after special treatment.
Fireproof fabrics: Fabrics with flame retardant properties that can slow down the spread of fire.
Antibacterial fabrics: Fabrics with antibacterial agents added to inhibit the growth of bacteria.
By Fabric Style
Lightweight fabrics: Such as silk and gauze, which are thin and transparent.
Heavyweight fabrics: Such as woolen fabrics and blankets, which are thick and warm.
Soft fabrics: Such as cotton cloth and knitted fabrics, which feel soft and comfortable.
Textile Technology
The classification of fabric textile technology can mainly be divided from the following aspects:
Weaving Technology
Weaving: Forming fabrics by interlacing warp and weft yarns through a loom. Common weaving methods include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and jacquard weave.
Knitting: Forming fabrics by looping and interlooping yarns through a knitting machine. Common knitting methods include weft knitting and warp knitting.
Non-woven: Fixing fibers together by bonding, hot pressing, needling, etc. instead of traditional textile processes to form fabrics.
Dyeing Technology
Solution dyeing: Adding dyes to the spinning solution before spinning, so that the fibers themselves have color.
Yarn dyeing: Dyeing the yarn before weaving.
Piece dyeing: Dyeing the whole piece of fabric after weaving.
Printing: Printing patterns or designs on the fabric, which can be direct printing or transfer printing.
Finishing Technology
Washing: Making the fabric achieve effects such as softness and fading through washing.
Brushing: Producing fluff on the surface of the fabric through mechanical action to increase warmth and softness.
Coating: Coating one or more layers of materials on the surface of the fabric to endow the fabric with functions such as waterproof, oil-proof, and anti-fouling.
Laminating: Laminating two or more fabrics together by adhesives or other methods to form a composite fabric with specific functions.
Functional Finishing
Waterproof finishing: Making the fabric have waterproof performance through coating or impregnation.
Fireproof finishing: Making the fabric have flame retardant performance through chemical treatment or coating.
Antibacterial finishing: Adding antibacterial agents to the fabric to make it have the function of inhibiting bacterial growth.
Anti-wrinkle finishing: Making the fabric have anti-wrinkle performance through resin finishing.
Yarn Technology
Single yarn: Yarn formed by combining single or multiple fibers.
Ply yarn: Yarn formed by combining and twisting two or more single yarns.
Fancy yarn: Yarn with special appearance and hand feeling made by special processes, such as slub yarn and loop yarn.
Fabric Structure
Plain weave fabric: The warp and weft yarns are interlaced in an one-up-one-down manner, with a simple structure and uniform density.
Twill weave fabric: The warp and weft yarns are interlaced in a two-up-one-down or three-up-one-down manner, with better elasticity and softness.
Satin weave fabric: The warp and weft yarns are interlaced in a four-up-one-down or more-up-one-down manner, with a smooth surface and good luster.
Jacquard fabric: Patterns or designs are formed on the fabric through a special weaving process.
Pure and Blended Fabrics
Pure Fabrics
Definition: Pure fabrics are those made from a single type of fiber.
Advantages:
Uniformity: The physical and chemical properties of the fabric are relatively uniform due to the consistent fiber properties.
Specific properties: Specific fabric properties can be obtained according to the characteristics of the fiber, such as hygroscopicity, air permeability, and warmth retention.
Easy to dye: Some fibers (such as cotton and hemp) have good dyeing effects and are easy to obtain uniform colors.
Disadvantages:
Single property: May lack certain comprehensive properties, such as elasticity and wrinkle resistance.
High cost: Some high-grade fibers (such as silk and wool) have high costs, resulting in expensive fabrics.
Blended Fabrics
Definition: Blended fabrics are those made from a mixture of two or more different types of fibers.
Advantages:
Comprehensive properties: Can combine the advantages of different fibers, such as elasticity, wear resistance, and warmth retention, to obtain fabrics with better comprehensive properties.
Cost-effective: By mixing lower-cost fibers, the overall cost of the fabric can be reduced.
Diverse styles: Different fiber combinations can create diverse fabric styles and hand feelings.
Improved performance: Some fibers (such as spandex) can improve the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
Disadvantages:
Dyeing difficulty: The dyeing properties of different fibers may be different, and special attention is required during dyeing to avoid color differences.
Complex maintenance: The care requirements of different fibers may be different, increasing the difficulty of fabric maintenance.
Selection Considerations
Use: Select the appropriate fiber type according to the final use of the fabric. For example, sportswear may require blended fabrics with high elasticity and moisture absorption and perspiration properties, while formal wear may pay more attention to the texture and appearance of pure fabrics.
Performance requirements: Consider the properties required by the fabric, such as wear resistance, air permeability, and warmth retention.
Cost: Select the appropriate fiber combination according to the budget, balancing cost and performance.
Dyeing and maintenance: Consider the dyeing effect of the fabric and the convenience of daily maintenance.
Examples
Cotton/polyester blend: Combines the hygroscopicity of cotton and the wear resistance of polyester, suitable for daily wear.
Wool/polyester blend: Increases the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the fabric, suitable for making suits and coats.
Cotton/spandex blend: Improves the elasticity of the fabric, suitable for making tight-fitting clothing and sportswear.
In general, the choice between pure and blended fabrics should be comprehensively considered according to specific needs and application scenarios.
Thread Count and Stitch Count of Fabrics
The thread count and stitch count of fabrics are important indicators for measuring the quality of textile fabrics. They represent the thickness of the fiber and the density of the fabric, respectively.
Fabric Thread Count
Definition: Fabric thread count (Ne) refers to the thickness of the fiber in the yarn, usually expressed in “count”. The higher the count, the thinner the yarn and the lighter and thinner the fabric; the lower the count, the thicker the yarn and the heavier and thicker the fabric.
Calculation methods:
Metric count (Nm):
Definition: The weight (in grams) of the fiber contained in one meter of yarn.
Calculation formula: Nm = weight (grams) / length (meters).
For example, if a 1-meter-long yarn weighs 1 gram, the count is 1000 Nm.
English count (Ne):
Definition: The length (in yards) of the yarn contained in one pound. Calculation formula: Ne = 840 yards/weight (pounds).
For example, if a 1-pound yarn is 840 yards long, the count is 1 Ne.
Denier:
Definition: The weight (in grams) of the fiber contained in 9000 meters of yarn.
Calculation formula: Denier = weight (in grams)/ 9000meters.
For example, if a 9000-meter-long yarn weighs 1 gram, the count is 1 Denier.
Tex:
Definition: The weight (in grams) of the fiber contained in 1000 meters of yarn.
Calculation formula: Tex = weight (in grams)/1000meters.
For example, if a 1000-meter-long yarn weighs 1 gram, the count is 1 Tex.
Count (S):
Definition: The length (in meters) of the yarn contained in one pound.
Calculation formula: S = 1000 meters/weight (pounds).
For example, if a 1-pound yarn is 1000 meters long, the count is 1 S.
Influencing factors:
- Fiber type: The count of different fibers may vary.
- Fiber length and fineness: The longer and finer the fiber, the higher the count.
- Yarn twist: The higher the twist, the thicker the yarn and the lower the count.
Fabric Stitch Count
Definition: Fabric stitch count (TPI, Threads Per Inch) refers to the number of loops in a unit length (usually 1 inch) of the fabric. The higher the stitch count, the denser the fabric and the finer the hand feeling; the lower the stitch count, the sparser the fabric and the coarser the hand feeling.
Calculation methods:
Warp density and weft density:
Warp density: The number of warp threads per inch (or per centimeter).
Weft density: The number of weft threads per inch (or per centimeter).
Calculation formula: Density = number of threads / length (inch or centimeter).
Total stitch count:
Total stitch count: The total number of loops per square inch (or per square centimeter).
Calculation formula: Total stitch count = warp density × weft density.
Unit area weight:
Unit area weight: The weight per square meter (or per square yard). Calculation formula: Unit area weight = weight / area (square meter or square yard).
The unit area weight can be calculated by measuring the weight of a certain area of the fabric.
Influencing factors:
- Fabric weaving method: Different weaving methods will affect the density of the fabric.
- Yarn thickness: The thinner the yarn, the higher the stitch count.
- Fabric use: Different uses have different requirements for the density of the fabric.
Relationship between Thread Count and Stitch Count
Balance between thread count and stitch count: Generally, high-count yarns require high-stitch-count fabrics to ensure the uniformity and stability of the fabric.
Hand feeling and performance of the fabric: High-count and high-stitch-count fabrics usually have a fine hand feeling and good air permeability, but may not be wear-resistant enough; low-count and low-stitch-count fabrics have a rough hand feeling and good wear resistance, but poor air permeability.
Specific Application Examples
High thread count, low stitch count: Such as some thin silk fabrics, with high thread count and relatively low stitch count, the fabric is thin and transparent.
Low thread count, high stitch count: Such as some thick cotton cloth or canvas, with low thread count and high stitch count, the fabric is thick and wear-resistant.
Application Selection of Various Thread Count Fabrics
By fabric thread count
- Low-count fabrics (21 count, 30 count, 40 count):
- Uses: Commonly used for work clothes, ordinary bedding, etc.
- Characteristics: The yarn is thicker and the fabric is heavier, suitable for occasions with high requirements for durability and wear resistance.
- Cost: Relatively low, suitable for large-scale production and economical products.
- Medium-count fabrics (40 count, 60 count):
- Uses: Bedding, ordinary clothing, etc.
- Characteristics: The yarn is finer and the fabric is softer and more comfortable, suitable for daily wear and use.
- Cost: Moderate, suitable for mid-range products.
- High-count fabrics (above 60 count, such as 80 count, 100 count):
- Uses: High-end bedding, high-end clothing, fine fabrics, etc.
- Characteristics: The yarn is extremely fine, the fabric is light, thin, soft, and has a good luster, suitable for high-end and high-comfort products.
- Cost: High, suitable for the high-end market.
- Ultra-high-count fabrics (above 120 count):
- Uses: Extremely high-end clothing, fine fabrics, etc.
- Characteristics: The yarn is very fine and the fabric is extremely light and thin, suitable for extremely high-end markets and special needs.
- Cost: Very high, difficult to produce, suitable for special occasions and display purposes.
By fabric stitch count
- Low stitch count (such as 110*90):
- Uses: Ordinary clothing, general household items, etc.
- Characteristics: The fabric density is low and the hand feeling is rough, suitable for general purposes.
- Medium stitch count (such as 128*68):
- Uses: Mid-range clothing, bedding, etc.
- Characteristics: The fabric density is moderate and the hand feeling is good, suitable for daily wear and use.
- High stitch count (such as 133*73 and above):
- Uses: High-end clothing, fine fabrics, etc.
- Characteristics: The fabric density is high and the hand feeling is fine, suitable for high-end and high-comfort products.
The relationship between thread count and stitch count: High-count and high-density fabrics usually have a soft hand feeling and good luster, suitable for high-end products. Low-count and low-density fabrics are suitable for occasions with high requirements for durability and wear resistance, with low cost, suitable for economical products.
Specific Application Examples
Bedding: Fabrics with 30S – 60S are suitable for bedding, providing a soft and comfortable sleeping experience.
Clothing: Fabrics with 60S – 80S are commonly used for clothing, providing good wearing comfort and appearance.
High-end fabrics: Such as 250S wool fabric with a diameter of 11 microns, suitable for making high-end clothing and fine fabrics.
By reasonably selecting the thread count and stitch count, fabrics that meet different needs can be manufactured, such as light and breathable summer clothing fabrics and thick and wear-resistant work clothes fabrics.
Summary
Fabric, as the fundamental material for clothing and textiles, has a wide variety of types and different properties. The classification of fabrics is mainly based on fiber sources, including natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, man-made fibers such as viscose fiber and acetate fiber, and synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester fiber. Thread count is an indicator of yarn thickness, affecting the hand feeling, air permeability, and warmth retention of the fabric. Generally, low-count fabrics are rough and warm, while high-count fabrics are soft and breathable. The manufacturing methods of fabrics, such as weaving, knitting, non-woven, and braiding, determine their structure and appearance. In addition, the functions of fabrics, such as waterproof, fireproof, and antibacterial, are achieved through special processes to meet specific needs. The selection of fabrics should comprehensively consider their properties, application scenarios, and costs to ensure the quality and effect of the final product.
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