Introduction

In the garments manufacturing process, the fabric material’s quality directly affects the finished garments’ quality. Understanding the standards for a qualified garment begins with fabric inspection, which is a crucial step. This is especially important for outerwear garments like down jackets, where the fabric’s unique properties highlight the significance of textile quality testing.

Importance of Fabric Quality

The fabric used in garments determines not only their visual appeal but also their durability, comfort, and functionality. High-quality fabrics contribute to customer satisfaction and brand loyalty, making effective fabric testing vital for textile manufacturers, retailers, and exporters alike.

Content and Methods of Fabric Inspection

Appearance Inspection

Inspect whether the fabric’s color uniformity, pattern, and texture are consistent with the sample and check for color differences, stains, or fabric damage. For down jacket fabrics, special attention should be paid to surface glossiness, smoothness, and pilling resistance.

• Appearance inspection can be conducted through visual observation, sample comparison, and light box methods. For example, observe the fabric’s color under natural daylightto check for uniformity and any noticeable shade variations.
• Use a magnifying glass to examine if the fabric’s texture is clear and free from damage. For downproof fabrics, tactile inspection can assess smoothness, sheen, and pilling resistance while ensuring fabric integrity.

Physical Performance Inspection

Test physical properties such as shrinkage rate, tensile strength, tear resistance, and abrasion resistance. For waterproof jacket fabrics, breathability and hydrostatic resistance are also essential to test.

• Professional testing equipment like the Shrinkage Rate Tester can measure shrinkage rates; a Universal Testing Machine can evaluate tensile strength.
• Waterproofness and air permeability are tested using specialized instruments such as Hydrostatic Head Testers and Air Permeability Testers.

Chemical Performance Inspection

Examine chemical properties such as pH value, formaldehyde content, and colorfastness. For technical textiles, it is also necessary to check for harmful chemicals such as heavy metals and pesticide residues.

• Use specialized tools like the pH Meter for acidity measurement, Formaldehyde Testers for chemical content, and Heavy Metal Detectors for hazardous substance evaluation.
• For colorfastness, instruments like the Color Fastness Tester ensure no noticeable fading occurs during washing or rubbing.
• Special Requirements for Down Jacket Fabric Inspection

In addition to the conventional inspection content and methods mentioned above, down jacket fabrics require some specific tests such as anti-puncture performance testing and filling quantity inspection. Anti-puncture performance testing can be conducted using specialized anti-puncture testing equipment to ensure that the fabric meets standards. Filling quantity inspection can utilize specialized filling quantity detection instruments to verify if the down jacket’s filling amount complies with standards.

Standards for Qualified Garments

Appearance Standards

Overall Cleanliness

The surface of the garment should be clean and free from stains. Stains may arise from oil, dyes, or other impurities during production. Inspect areas prone to staining such as collars, cuffs, and hems carefully. For instance, if a white shirt has yellow stains on the collar, it does not meet appearance standards.

There should be no damages, including damage to the fabric itself, such as tearing and scratching, as well as damage to decorative parts, such as button loss and zipper damage. For example, if there is a hole in the leg of a pair of jeans (not a designed hole style), it cannot be considered a qualified product.

The handling of thread ends is also crucial; there should be no visible thread ends on the garment’s surface. Excessive thread ends at seams or pocket edges can affect the product’s refinement.

Color and Pattern

The garment’s color, pattern, and texture must match design specifications precisely without noticeable color differences. Color difference is typically assessed by comparing the garment with standard color cards or design samples under natural light. For example, in a sportswear set, the top and pants should have uniform colors; if one is darker than the other, it does not meet standards.For garments with patterns, integrity, symmetry, and accurate positioning of patterns are essential. For instance, a T-shirt with a brand logo should have a complete and clear logo positioned according to design specifications without distortion or misalignment.

Size Specifications

Sizes must conform to standards which means that all dimensions of the garment must fall within acceptable limits. Different types of clothing and brands have their sizing standards. For example, in dresses, measurements for bust, waist, hip circumference, and skirt length must adhere to established size specifications. Generally speaking, a size deviation of ±1-2 cm (depending on clothing type and brand requirements) is reasonable. Excessive size deviations may result in an improper fit for consumers affecting sales and wearing experience.

Sewing Standards

Sewing Line Quality

The lines should be neat and uniform; this is an important indicator of sewing quality. Stitch widths cannot vary significantly; for example, in a suit jacket’s cuffs or hemline, stitch width should remain consistent. Stitches must be secure without skipped stitches or broken threads that could lead to seam failure; missed stitches occur when stitching skips parts of the fabric resulting in incomplete seams; broken threads make seams prone to tearing; missed seams compromise garment structure stability—for instance, if there are broken threads at jeans pocket edges.

Seam Edge Treatment

Edges should have consistent widths not only for aesthetics but also to ensure durability. Uneven edges may cause garments to deform during washing or wearing.Edges should not have frayed or loose threads; fraying gives garments a rough appearance while loose threads compromise garment integrity—if there are frayed edges on a dress hemline it does not meet standards.

Installation of Accessories

Buttons and zippers must be securely installed as they are key to proper garment use. Buttons should be sewn tightly so they do not fall off easily; zippers must operate smoothly without catching while ensuring zipper heads do not detach during use—for example if a trench coat zipper frequently jams or its head falls off during wear it does not meet quality standards; additionally accessory colors and materials should match overall garment style.

Physical Performance Standards

Dimensional stability

The shrinkage rate of garments must meet standards ensuring no significant deformation occurs after wearing them. Fabric shrinkage test involves washing garments under specific conditions and then measuring size changes before and after washing—different fabrics have varying shrinkage rate standards—for instance, pure cotton T-shirts generally require shrinkage rates within 3%-5%, while wool coats may allow rates around 1%-3%. Excessive size changes after washing will affect fit. Besides shrinkage rates stretching deformation during wear also needs consideration—some fitted clothing like yoga pants or skinny jeans must maintain their shape during movement without excessive stretching.

SmartShrink Fabric Shrinkage Tester is a quick and efficient tool that provides valuable shrinkage test results in just 5 seconds! It’s perfect for checking how fabrics respond after washing, steaming, and dry-cleaning. Know more fabric shrinkage test methods, please visit this page.

Strength Performance

Tensile strength in fabric refers to the maximum force garments can withstand when stretched—this is particularly important for clothing subjected to significant pulling forces like sportswear or workwear—for instance, athletic shorts may experience stretching forces from leg muscles during activity; insufficient tensile strength could lead to tearing.

Fabric tear strength is another critical metric measuring resistance against tearing—outer garments like raincoats or jackets may face unexpected pulls during daily wear requiring adequate tear strength to maintain garment integrity.

Abrasion resistance refers to how well garments withstand friction without damage—for example, areas like knees on pants or elbows on tops frequently contact external surfaces requiring good abrasion resistance for longevity.

This Martindale Tester checks fabric for abrasion and pilling. It uses a digital algorithm to create a Lissajous curve and achieve accurate results without calibration. You can easily switch between tests with one click. The tester works with various fabrics, including cotton, linen, and silk, and meets over 20 international standards. For more about Martindale testing, please visit this article: Fabric Martindale Abrasion Pilling Test.

Chemical Performance Standards

pH Level

The pH level of garments should align with human skin requirements ensuring no harm occurs—human skin typically has a pH range between 4.5-6.5; thus garments’ pH levels should approximate this range to avoid skin irritation—improper pH levels may lead to allergic reactions or itching.

Harmful Substance Content

Formaldehyde levels must remain within permissible ranges ensuring no health hazards arise—formaldehyde is commonly found in clothing processing possibly remaining after wrinkle-resistant treatments—national standards specify formaldehyde limits based on garment types—for instance garments directly contacting skin must not exceed 75 mg/kg while those not directly contacting skin must remain below 300 mg/kg.

Color fastness should be good ensuring no noticeable fading occurs during washing or friction—color fastness includes wash fastness and rubbing fastness—poor color fastness leads to fading during washing affecting both garment appearance and potentially staining other items—additionally garments with coatings or prints require checks for harmful heavy metals in these substances ensuring compliance with safety limits.

The WashTrue Washing Colour Fastness Tester checks how well colors resist washing. It uses a smart temperature control algorithm to ensure accurate results. The tester meets standards like ISO 105 C06:2010 and AATCC61-2013e3. You can select test standards, time, and temperature on the touch screen. The color fastness tester is efficient and alerts you when the test is done.

SmartCrock Crockmeter tests color fastness in textiles or leather to dry or wet rubbing. It’s fully automatic, repeating rubbing with an adjustable head that lifts up and down. This test reduces manual influence and saves 20% of test time, and labor. It meets ISO, GB/T, AATCC, and other standards, suitable for cotton, chemical fibers, blended fabrics, and leather.

Fabric Checking Standards: 4-point fabric inspection vs 10-point system fabric inspection

Sampling Procedure

1. AATCC Inspection and Sampling Standards:
   • A: Sampling Quantity: Square root of total rolls multiplied by eight.
   • B: Number of Sample Boxes: Square root of total boxes.
2. Sampling Requirements:
   • Select rolls randomly from those awaiting inspection.
   • Textile factories must present packing lists once at least 80% of rolls in a batch are packed.
   • Inspectors will select from these rolls.

Once inspectors select rolls for inspection no adjustments may occur regarding either the number awaiting inspection or selected rolls during inspections; aside from recording colors no pieces may be cut from any roll during this time.
All accepted rolls will receive grade ratings based on defect scores.

Inspection Scoring

Scoring Calculation
In principle each inspected roll’s score adds up; then based on acceptance levels grades are assigned—but different fabric types require different acceptance levels thus using the formulas below calculates each roll’s score per 100 square yards allowing grading across various fabric types:

A=(Total Score×3600)(Inspected Yards×Usable Width)=Score per 100 Square YardsA=(Inspected Yards×Usable Width)(Total Score×3600)​=Score per 100 Square Yards

Acceptance Levels by Fabric Type (See Below Table)

Different types of fabrics fall into four main categories:

• Rolls exceeding specified scores shall be classified as second-grade products.
• If the average score across an entire batch exceeds the designated score level that batch shall be deemed unqualified.

4 point fabric inspection

The 4 point system is commonly used for fabric inspections primarily assessing appearance quality—under this standard total deductions per every 100 square yards must not exceed four points. Specific deduction rules include:

• Lengthwise defects: Deduct one point per yard.
• Crosswise defects: Deduct one point per yard.
• Severe defects: Deduct four points per yard.
  The “Four-Point” standard checks primarily cover issues related to fabric color patterns textures color differences stains damages etc.

10 point system fabric inspection

The 10 point system represents another common standard used in fabric inspections mainly evaluating overall quality—under this standard total deductions per every 100 square yards must not exceed ten points. Specific deduction rules include:

• Lengthwise defects: Deduct half a point per yard.
• Crosswise defects: Deduct half a point per yard.
• Severe defects: Deduct ten points per yard.
  The “Ten-Point” standard checks encompass appearance issues along with physical performance and chemical performance aspects.

To make it concise,

• 4-Point Fabric Inspection System: Widely used in textile factories to grade fabric defects.
• 10-Point Fabric Inspection System: Suited for high-precision textile evaluationand ensures better quality assurance.

Summary

Effective fabric inspection is essential for ensuring high-quality garments in the apparel industry. By understanding the methods and standards outlined in this blog, manufacturers can enhance their inspection processes, ultimately leading to improved product quality and customer satisfaction. Smart textiles and sustainable materials will demand new inspection paradigms. However, the core principles of quality and integrity will remain unchanged. The pursuit of perfection in fabric inspection is an unending journey, one that will continue to shape the apparel landscape for generations to come.

The most comprehensive “Garment Quality Inspection Checklist” is available upon request—contact us for your free copy!

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