Pilling on fabrics is not just an aesthetic concern; it directly affects product quality and customer satisfaction. Understanding and implementing reliable fabric pilling test methods is essential for quality control in the textile industry. This article explores four major methods—Circular Locus Method, Martindale Method, Pilling Box Method, and Random Tumble Pilling Method—to evaluate and grade the pilling resistance of various fabrics, along with the instruments used and their significance in quality control. Learn how these testing methods help manufacturers maintain stringent quality standards and meet consumer expectations.
The process of fabric pilling can be divided into three steps: fuzzing, the fibers entangling into balls, and the balls shedding. These fabric pilling test methods mainly imitate the pilling that occurs on fabric surfaces during daily use and washing due to continuous friction.
Pilling Resistance Test Method 1: Circular Locus Method
Test Standard
GB/T 4802.1 – 2008. This method mainly simulates how fabric pills when it is rubbed by an external force.
Test Principle
This method simulates the external friction experienced by fabrics, causing fuzzing and pilling. The test uses a circular locus pilling tester, combining a nylon brush and fabric abrasive (or the abrasive alone), to rub the specimen. The resulting pilling of fabric is evaluated visually under standard lighting conditions.
Applicable Range
Mostly used for low-elastic filament woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, chemical fiber pure or blended fabrics, and wool fabrics.
Test Instrument
Test Procedure
Specimen Preparation: Prepare 5 specimens of 113 ± 0.5 mm and 1 comparison specimen for grading. Condition them in a standard atmosphere (temperature 20 ± 2 °C, relative humidity 65 ± 5%) for at least 16 hours.
Before the test, make sure the instrument is level and the nylon brush is clean. You can clean the brush with a suitable solvent like acetone. If there are protruding nylon filaments, cut them flat with scissors. If they are loose, remove them with clips. Install the foam plastic gasket, specimen, and fabric abrasive on the test clamp and grinding table respectively, with the specimen facing outward.
Select the parameter category according to the applicable fabric type. The parameters for the circular trajectory method are chosen based on the fabric type. (See the table below for details)
Grading: In the grading box in the darkroom, compare the tested and untested specimens and grade them according to the visual description in the standard.
Use the fabric pilling grading system outlined in the standards to assign grades based on fuzzing and pilling severity.
Fabric Pilling Rating
| Grade | Description |
| 5 | No change |
| 4 | Slight fuzzing and/or pilling |
| 3 | Moderate fuzzing/pilling with balls covering part of the fabric |
| 2 | Severe fuzzing/pilling covering most of the fabric |
| 1 | Extreme fuzzing/pilling covering the entire fabric |
It is recommended that at least 2 people grade the specimens. The grading result of a single person is the average of the grades of all specimens. The test result of the sample is the average of the grades of all graders.
Pilling resistance grade
The grading method has been changed from comparison with standard samples to visual description grading.
| Reference Category | Applicable Fabric Type Examples | Pressure / CN | Fuzzing Cycles | Pilling Cycles | |
| A | Workwear fabrics, sportswear fabrics, dense and heavy fabrics, etc. | 590 | 150 | 150 | |
| B | Synthetic fiber filament outerwear fabrics, etc. | 590 | 50 | 50 | |
| C | Military uniform (combed blended) fabrics, etc. | 490 | 30 | 50 | |
| D | Chemical fiber blended and interwoven fabrics, etc. | 490 | 10 | 50 | |
| E | Combed wool fabrics, light napped fabrics, short fiber weft knitted fabrics, underwear fabrics, etc. | 780 | 0 | 600 | |
| F | Carded wool fabrics, pile fabrics, loose structure fabrics, etc. | 490 | 0 | 50 |
Notes:
- Other fabrics not listed in the table can refer to similar fabrics listed in the table or be selected by relevant parties.
- Appropriate parameter categories can be selected according to the multi – directional wear resistance in the pilling test, but it should be stated in the report.
- Considering that pilling in all types of fabric tests is impossible, relevant parties can adopt agreed test parameters and state them in the report.
Pilling Resistance Test Method 2: Martindale Method
Test Standards
Such as GB/T 4802.2 – 2008 ISO 5670, BS 3424/5690, BS EN ISO 12945 – 2, etc.
Test Principle
The Martindale Abrasion Tester evaluates fabric pilling resistance by rubbing the sample against abrasive materials in a Lissajous motion under controlled pressure.
The specimen can freely rotate around the central axis perpendicular to the specimen plane. After a specified friction stage, the fuzzing or pilling grade of the specimen is evaluated by visual description.
Applicable Range
This versatile method works for textiles, upholstery, carpets, and even leather. It is a standard tool in the quality control in the textile industry.
Test Instrument
Smartindale Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester
Classification of Pilling Tests (See the table below for details)
| Category | Textile Types | Abrasive | Load Mass / g | Evaluation Stage | Friction Cycles |
| 1 | Decorative fabrics | Wool fabric abrasive | 415 ± 2 | 1 | 500 |
| 2 | 1000 | ||||
| 3 | 2000 | ||||
| 4 | 5000 | ||||
| 2 | Woven fabrics (except decorative fabrics) | Woven fabric itself or wool fabric abrasive | 415 ± 2 | 1 | 125 |
| 2 | 500 | ||||
| 3 | 1000 | ||||
| 4 | 2000 | ||||
| 5 | 5000 | ||||
| 6 | 7000 | ||||
| 3 | Knitted fabrics (except decorative fabrics) | Knitted fabric itself or wool fabric abrasive | 155 ± 1 | 1 | 125 |
| 2 | 500 | ||||
| 3 | 1000 | ||||
| 4 | 2000 | ||||
| 5 | 5000 | ||||
| 6 | 7000 |
Pilling state description: The grading method has been changed from comparison with standard samples to visual description grading. Use the fabric pilling grading system outlined in the standards to assign grades based on fuzzing and pilling severity.
Fabric Pilling Rating
| Grade | Description |
| 5 | No change |
| 4 | Slight fuzzing and/or pilling |
| 3 | Moderate fuzzing/pilling with balls covering part of the fabric |
| 2 | Severe fuzzing/pilling covering most of the fabric |
| 1 | Extreme fuzzing/pilling covering the entire fabric |
Friction Cycles for Pilling: Experiments show that after 7000 consecutive frictions, there is a good correlation between the test and wearing. Because the pills that still exist after 2000 frictions may have been rubbed off after 7000 frictions. For fabrics of types 2 and 3, the pilling friction cycles should not be less than 2000 times. Even if the pilling grade observed at the agreed evaluation stage is 4 – 5 or above, the test can be terminated before 7000 times (after reaching the specified friction cycles, the test can be terminated regardless of the pilling condition).
The method accommodates a variety of pilling test procedures and textile types, from decorative fabrics to needlework materials. Each category uses different abrasives, loads, and friction cycles, ensuring tailored testing.
Pilling Resistance Test Method 3: Pilling Box Method
Test Standards
GB/T 4802.3, ISO 12945.1, BS 5811, JIS L 1076, IWS TM 152, M&S P18, P18B, P18C, P21A, NEXT 19, etc.
Test Principle
The specimen installed on the polyurethane tube randomly flips in a wooden box lined with cork at a constant speed. After the specified number of flips, the fuzzing and/or pilling performance is evaluated by visual description.
Parameters
The parameters are 7200 r for coarse wool knitted fabrics, 14400 r for worsted wool knitted fabrics, 10800 r for worsted cashmere knitted fabrics, and 7200 r for coarse cashmere fabrics. Or according to the agreed number of rotations.
Notes:
Pay attention to the friction performance of the rubber cork lining and regularly test the friction coefficient. When using a new rubber cork lining, generally perform an idle run first.
The convex surfaces at both ends of the sample tube (polyurethane plastic tube) should be flat and smooth.
When using adhesive tape for bonding, it should be flat and smooth.
Test Instrument
PillSnag ICI Pilling and Snagging Tester
In this method, the specimen flips randomly in a cork-lined box at constant speed using a pilling box tester. After a set number of rotations, the fabric pilling rating is visually assessed.
Applicable Range
Especially suited for wool fabrics and other textiles prone to pilling, the ICI pilling tester is a go-to device for testing.
Pilling Resistance Test Method 4: Random Tumble Method
Test Standards
GB/T 4802.4, ISO 12945.3, ASTM D 3512, JIS L 1076 D, etc.
Test Principle
The random tumble pilling tester can detect the pilling resistance performance of the fabric. Under the rotation of the stainless steel blades in the independent stainless steel sample test chamber, the fabric to be tested continuously and randomly rubs against the cork lining wall. The test time is controlled by a timer and an audio alarm, and compressed air can be injected into the test chamber to enhance the tumbling and friction effects.
Test Instrument
TumblePill Random Tumble Pilling Tester
Applicable Range
Various daily wearing and household fabrics, such as clothing and bedding, especially suitable for evaluating the pilling performance in the clothing industry.
Test Parameters
The test is divided into three stages.
- Stage 1: Total test time: 5 min;
- Stage 2: Total test time: 15 min (set 10 min after stage 1);
- Stage 3: Total test time: 30 min (set 15 min after stage 2).
After each test stage is completed, then take out the specimen and remove the excess fibers that have not entangled into balls on the specimen surface and the residual lint in the test chamber with air flow.
Pilling Resistance Grading
After each stage of the test is completed, grade the fuzzing, pilling, and felting grades of the fabric, and take the grade of the last stage as the report grade (if necessary, each stage grade can be reported separately).
Table 2 Description of Pilling Grades
| Grade | State Description |
| 5 | No change |
| 4 | Slight pilling on the surface |
| 3 | Moderate pilling on the surface – balls of different sizes and densities cover part of the specimen’s surface |
| 2 | Obvious pilling on the surface – balls of different sizes and densities cover most of the specimen’s surface |
| 1 | Severe pilling on the surface – balls of different sizes and densities cover the entire surface of the specimen |
Table 3 Description of Fuzzing Grades
| Grade | State Description |
| 5 | No change |
| 4 | Slight fuzzing on the surface |
| 3 | Moderate fuzzing on the surface |
| 2 | Obvious fuzzing on the surface |
| 1 | Severe fuzzing on the surface |
Table 4 Description of Felting Grades
| Grade | State Description |
| 5 | No change |
| 4 | Slight felting on the surface |
| 3 | Moderate felting on the surface |
| 2 | Obvious felting on the surface |
| 1 | Severe felting on the surface |
Methods for Analyzing Fabric Pilling Test Results
Counting Method: That is, the number of fuzzing and pilling in a specified area.
Weighing Method: That is, weighing the weight of the pills on and falling from the fabric.
Sample Comparison Method: That is, comparing the pilled fabric with the standard sample to determine the pilling degree of the specimen. It is divided into 5 grades. The smaller the grade, the more severe the pilling of the fabric; the larger the grade, the better the anti – pilling performance.
Analyzing with a Pilling Curve: Using a pilling curve with the vertical axis representing the number of pills and the horizontal axis representing the friction time to analyze the pilling degree and the rate of pill formation and shedding.
Due to different test methods, conditions, and principles, there are significant differences in the anti – pilling performance of the same fabric. The influence of different test methods on the anti – pilling grade of the fabric is as follows. (See the table below)
Anti – Fuzzing and Pilling Grades
| Circular Locus Method | Martindale Method | Pilling Box Method | Random Tumble Method |
| 4 | 4 | 3 – 4 | 4 |
| 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 |
| 3 – 4 | 3 – 4 | 3 | 4 |
| 3 | 2 | 3 – 4 | 4 |
Moreover, the experimental grading has a certain subjectivity.
In conclusion, only by understanding and familiarizing with the test rules can we test the fabric with the most appropriate pilling resistance test method. Among them, the circular trajectory method and the Martindale method are equivalent in test effect and evaluation. They are suitable for most knitted fabrics and the obtained ratings are relatively high. Secondly, the pilling box method and the random tumble method are also equivalent in test effect and evaluation. They are suitable for most woven fabrics and the obtained ratings are relatively high.
Optimizing Fabric Performance and Pilling Resistance
In addition, the following factors also affect the anti – pilling performance of fabrics:
- Fabrics with short fiber length and low twist have poorer anti – pilling performance than those with long fiber length and high twist. To fundamentally improve the anti – pilling performance of the fabric, it needs to use long – staple cotton and other fibers with longer fiber length.
- Fibers that are prone to static electricity are easy to form pills.
- In terms of spinning methods, the tighter the yarn is held together, the better the anti – pilling performance. Compact siro spinning is better than ring spinning, and ring spinning is better than open – end spinning.
- In terms of fabric structure, the longer the floating yarn, the easier it is for the fiber to be exposed from the yarn due to external friction.
- Softening treatment, especially with a high – slip silicone oil softener, will reduce the yarn cohesion, making the fiber more easily dragged and exposed from the yarn under the friction effect, forming fuzz and pills, resulting in poorer anti – pilling performance of the fabric.
- Surface film – forming or fiber friction – increasing agents or finishes that enhance yarn cohesion will also be beneficial to the anti – pilling performance of the fabric. For example, stiffeners and some cross – linking agents can also be used as anti – splitting agents.
- Polishing enzyme treatment makes the fabric surface smoother, and without exposed fuzz as the fulcrum, it will improve the anti – pilling performance of the fabric, but will reduce the wear resistance of the fabric.
Conclusion
Selecting the appropriate fabric pilling resistance test method is vital for manufacturers aiming to produce high-quality, durable textiles. Whether it’s the Circular Locus Method, Martindale Method, Pilling Box Method, or Random Tumble Pilling Method, each offers valuable insights into the pilling resistance of fabrics. Understanding these techniques ensures consistent quality control and customer satisfaction in the competitive textile industry.
Looking for reliable pilling testers like the Martindale Pilling Tester or ICI Pilling Tester? Contact us today!
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