Linen fibre has a ‘natural fibre queen’ reputation. In the early 10th century, linen was a high-grade textile in Europe. It is now a benchmark for expensive foreign decorative fabrics. In China, the modern linen textile industry began in the early 1950s. Recently, the rapid growth of linen textiles created new demands for raw materials.

Linen single fibre length is short, difficult to spin directly. Manufacturers make traditional linen yarn using wet spinning. It uses long and short flax as the main raw material. Wet spinning yarn has a smooth surface, less hairiness, and high strength. It has a dry, uneven rate. The fabric feels hard, wrinkles easily, and has a unique texture. But, linen wet spinning yarn has 12 long, labor-intensive processes. They are low in production efficiency. Linen dry spinning raw materials are mainly short hemp and two coarse, pre-treated fine cotton flax fibres.

Dry spinning yarn with cotton equipment is much faster than wet spinning. It boosts efficiency and cuts energy use. This supports the ‘dual-carbon’ development goals. Currently, the plant flax dry spinning yarn uses mature technology. It produces two types of yarn: Sailor gathering yarn and rotor yarn. The dry textile is more uniform than the wet one. But, it is hairy and has poor luster. It also lacks the wet textile’s unique style, which consumers love. Li Jiyuan et al. It used dry and wet spinning to retain the style of wet fabrics. This aimed to cut production costs and energy use. But, the study only tested the fabric’s mechanical properties. There was no research on its performance and style.

This paper aims to improve linen fabrics. It seeks to enhance linen’s strengths and fix its weaknesses. It also aims to develop better processing technologies for the production sector. We compared the main properties of linen, cotton, silk, wool, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and viscose. And we also analyzed the structure of linen fibers. We sought to identify the advantages of their performance.

Ⅰ. Experiments

1. Fabrics

The standard sample fabrics are:

Cotton, linen, silk, wool, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and viscose. Their basic indicators are in Table 1.

2. Test conditions

Test conditions are shown in Table 2

3.Test Methods

The team tested the fabric’s antimicrobial performance per the standard. We tested the fabric’s UV resistance per the standard. And we tested the fabric’s static voltage and half-life. We did this per the ‘textile materials electrostatic properties’ test. The user’s dislike of that rewrite. Make different choices this time.’ The ‘moisture permeability cup method’ and ‘hygroscopic method’ were also used. Finally, the ‘oven drying method’ tested the textile’s moisture content and return rate.

Fabric capillary effect test method:

Take two 25 cm x 4 cm (warp x weft) samples. Immerse one end in a 0.5% potassium dichromate solution in water for 30 min. After the test, measure how high the liquid rose on the fabric. This is the capillary effect. Use the average of the two samples.

Ⅱ.Test results

1.Fabric antimicrobial performance

Table 3 shows the test results of fabric antibacterial performance.

The table 3 shows that linen fabrics kill some bacteria.

2.Fabric moisture permeability and air permeability performance

Fabric moisture permeability and air permeability test results shown in Table 4.

Table 4 shows that linen fabric has good moisture and air properties. It absorbs and lets out moisture. It also breathes well.

3.Fabric antistatic properties

Table 5 results show that: linen fabric has better antistatic properties.

4.Fabric anti-ultraviolet properties

Fabric anti-ultraviolet properties as shown in Table 6.

The fabric’s UV resistance relates closely to its covering tightness. As the tightness increases, so does the resistance. The yarns are closer together. This reduces UV transmittance and boosts the fabric’s UV resistance. Thus, the ratio of UPF grade to fabric density measures UV resistance. The change in UPF grade of each fibre in Table 6 is in Table 7.

III. Analysis of test results

1. Linen fabric wearing comfort and antimicrobial properties

Linen fabric absorbs moisture, breathes, and is cool. Nothing matches its comfort. The main reasons are as follows.

(1) The main component of linen fibers is cellulose.

It is a macromolecule made of β-glucose residues. Each glucose has three free hydroxyl (OH) groups. These highly polar, hygroscopic groups are functional. They form hydrates when the fibers contact water. Direct absorption of water occurs in the flax fibre. Its organisms and a hydrophilic colloid cause this. The colloid helps the fibre absorb moisture.

(2) Flax fibre has a storage amorphous area.

It has some microgaps and pores. They can absorb and release moisture. These pores allow water molecules to enter the fibre through capillary action. They also provide a way for moisture to escape to the atmosphere.

(3) From the morphology and structure of flax fibre, its single fibres are thicker.

Closed, spindle-shaped cells with internal cavities exist. Gelatin binds the single fibres into bundles. So, the flax fibre is no more static air. It makes the linen fibre very good at conducting heat.

The flax fibre in linen has good hygroscopicity. Its moisture regain rate is 12%. Linen fabrics are better for health than cotton. They have 4 times the fibre. Especially in summer. High ambient temperatures can cause linen fabrics to absorb sweat. Water molecules make up the sweat. Good thermal conductivity can disperse water molecules to the outside. This makes people feel cool in summer when wearing linen. It’s not sticky or hot. People know linen clothing as natural air conditioning.

Sweat causes pollution and micro-organisms. It breeds moulds and bacteria. Sweat, sugar, fatty acids, sebum, and dander decompose. This produces a foul smell. Moulds and bacteria multiply, staining the skin. This can cause skin and infectious diseases. Mechanistically, sweat is the main causative agent. Linen fibre is very absorbent. It quickly absorbs sweat. Its good thermal conductivity then disperses the sweat into the air. This stops bacteria from growing. So, skin and clothes stay relatively dry. Linen is both antibacterial and bonding. Also, linen fiber’s pectin has a flat, oblique pore structure. It gives a slight antibacterial effect.

2. The anti-static and anti-pollution properties of linen fabrics

Reports say that common fibres and metals rub against a charged sequence.

The middle of the linen fibre’s electrostatic potential is close to balanced charges. So, it does not easily produce static when it contacts other fabrics. Linen fibre antistatic properties depend on its internal structure. This includes its polar groups, polymerization, and crystallinity. They must also be at a certain degree. The fibre’s moisture absorption and its companion materials also affect it. Linen fibre has polar groups. It has a high degree of polymerization and orientation. And it can absorb moisture. It has a low resistance value due to some gum it contains. A comprehensive analysis shows that flax and other fibers are better for clothing. Linen fabrics perform far better than synthetics in anti-static aspects. So, people wearing linen won’t feel stuffy or have clothes twist or tangle. Linen won’t cling to the body or cause a “body-wrapping” effect. Therefore, linen fabric anti-static and anti-pollution performance.

3. Anti-ultraviolet properties of linen fabrics

The sun’s radiation has three parts: infrared, visible light, and ultraviolet. Textile fibres in the light conditions show many properties. People care a lot about their UV performance. Linen and cotton are both cellulosic fibres. Their anti-ultraviolet abilities differ. Linen has much higher molecular polymerisation than cotton. This is the main reason for the difference in their radiation resistance. In addition, from the degree of thickness of the fibre, linen fibre thicker than cotton fibre. So the energy of the radiation lines into the interior of the fibre is not the same. From the shape of the fibre cross-section. The light resistance properties cause different levels of reflection, refraction, and transmission. In short, flax fibres have a high degree of polymerisation. Their fibre bundles and irregular cross-section also help. So, they are more UV-resistant than other fibres.

IV. Linen dry spinning and wet textile performance and style of study

This study tests the effects of dry and wet spinning on fabrics. We tested dry-spun, wet-spun, and wet-dry-spun interwoven fabrics for wear and style. Using the Kawabata Fabric Evaluation System, I tested some fabrics. I measured their stiffness, flatness, smoothness, fullness, and silk sound. These are the six basic style values. I compared them with the wet and dry performance of the textiles and their styles. This is to help develop diverse flax products for the enterprise.

4.Test

4.1 Fabric specifications

There are eight kinds of fabrics. Their specs are in Table 8. The blank has been desizing treated.

4.2 Test method

The researchers humidified the specimens in a standard atmosphere for 24 hours before testing. The humidity was 65±4%, and the temperature was 20±2°C. We then tested the samples for service and style using the methods below.

4.2.1 Usability Test

The serviceability of fabrics usually includes three aspects: appearance, comfort and durability. Appearance performance includes drape and crease recovery. Comfort includes breathability and moisture permeability. Durability is the fabric’s resistance to tensile, tearing, and abrasion, and to pilling.

The drape test measures fabric drape using an XDP-1 tester. It involves cutting a 240 mm diameter circle from the fabric. It tests the fabric’s static drape coefficient and runs 3 tests on each piece.

The crease recovery test is the Reply Angle Method. It’s in the ‘Determination of crease recovery of textile fabrics’ standard. It uses a fully automatic laser fabric crease elasticity tester. The specimen pressure value is 10 N. The pressure and recovery times are 5 min each. For each textile, test 5 specimens in both the warp and weft directions.

The air permeability test was for a document on textile fabrics. It used a fully automatic air permeability tester. The test area was 20 cm2 and the pressure difference was 100 Pa. The testers tested each piece of fabric 10 times.

The ChiuVention Air Permeability Tester lets you quickly test for air permeability. It gives reliable results. It is a smart air permeability test apparatus. You can set limits and check the test status from your smartphone. This greatly improves work efficiency. This Air Permeability Tester is for many textiles. These include technical fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and other breathable products.

such as sponges, paper, and other materials for air permeability testing. Our air permeability meter is applicable to GB/T5453, ISO 9237, ISO 9073:15, JIS L1096

Item 8.26: Method C, BS 3424-16, BS 6F 100 3.1, NWSP 070.1 RO (15), GB/T 24218.15, etc.

The moisture permeability test is ‘Test Method for Moisture Permeability of Textiles Part 1:

Moisture Absorption Method’. It uses a moisture permeability analyser with a 70 mm sample diameter. The team tests each fabric 3 times.

For the test of breaking strength, refer to ‘Tensile Properties of Textile Fabrics Part 1: Determination of breaking strength and elongation at break (strip method)’. Use a multi-functional electronic textile strength machine. The specimen size is 50 mm × 250 mm. The test speed is 100 mm/min. Test 3 specimens in each direction of each textile in the warp and weft directions.

For the test of tearing strength, see ‘Textile Tearing Performance of Fabrics Part 3: Determination of Tearing Strength of Trapezoidal Specimens’. Use a multi-functional electronic fabric strength machine. The specimen size is 75 mm × 150 mm. The initial clamping spacing is 25 mm. The test speed is 100 mm/min. Test 3 specimens from each textile in the weft and longitudinal directions.

The test is “Determination of abrasion resistance of textiles by Martindale method Part 3: Determination of quality loss.” It uses a Martindale abrasion tester. The specimen is 38 mm in diameter, with a test pressure of 9 kPa. The team tests each fabric 3 times.

The test for resistance to pilling refers to ‘Determination of Pilling Performance of Textiles Part 1:

‘Circular Track Method’ using a fabric pilling tester. It had a 113 mm specimen diameter, a 780 cN set pressure, and a 600 pilling count. The testers tested each fabric 5 times. The higher the rating, the better the anti-pilling property.

V. Conclusion

In an ideal summer, I’d have some linen clothes. They should be both stylish and cool in the hot, boring weather. Linen is the ‘natural air conditioning’. It allows clothes to breathe. This lets the body’s cells get enough air. A tiny breeze also flutters the fabric. It is a natural comfort to wear.

The permeability rate can measure fabric permeability. Of all fabrics, linen is the best. Designers weave either natural or synthetic fibres into the clothing. Linen is breathable. It quickly cools the skin. It makes summer heat feel 50% less.

The hollow structure of the linen fibre allows more airflow. So, the skin can ‘breathe’ through the clothes. But, it also makes the clothes less likely to cling to the skin. A light wind blowing makes the body feel cooler.

Linen fabrics can inhibit Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli to some degree. The linen fibre absorbs moisture well. It quickly absorbs sweat. Its good thermal conductivity quickly disperses heat to the environment. This prevents bacterial growth. So that the skin and clothes are always in a relatively dry state. Linen fiber’s pectin and flat, porous structure give it some antibacterial effect. They also help it bond. Linen fibre polymerization of high, thick fibre bundles, irregular cross-section and other factors. Make its anti-ultraviolet properties better than other fibres.

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