Global Textile Testing Standards Explained: Waterproofness, Wash Fastness, and Air Permeability Compared
Global textile testing standards measure the durability of textile products. Many types of tests check how well textiles perform, feel, and last. These tests look at waterproofness, wash fastness, and air permeability.
The ISO 4920 standard evaluates the fabric’s resistance to water under rainy conditions.
The wash fastness test, such as ISO 105-C06, checks how well fabric resists color bleeding. The process shows how much fabric color the laundering retains. It is a very important test for fashion, apparel, and home textiles.
The comfort of a textile depends on its breathability. We measure breathability with air permeability standards ISO 9237 and ASTM D737. This test demonstrates the ease with which air can pass through the fabric. It is an important parameter for sportswear and industrial fabrics.
Introduction
Why is textile quality important? The answer to this question may appear to be self-evident, but some aspects may not be so clear. We will highlight some of these here.
Studies say there is a strong link between product quality and return on investment. Firms that produce better-quality goods tend to have a bigger market share.
The six benefits of quality that come from another study are:
- Greater market share
- Higher earnings
- Loyal customers
- Higher growth rate
- Premium price
- Employees with strong motivation
Importance of high-performance tests in textiles
Firefighters’ uniforms protect against flames and heat. They also need to be flexible and comfortable.
It is too late and too dangerous to discover a problem with protective gear in the middle of a fire. So, who tests whether protective gear protects? Global Textile quality analysts and researchers test products to ensure high quality.
Testing Protective Clothing in Extreme Conditions
PyroMan is a life-size mannequin with 122 sensors. It tests thermally protected clothing in conditions of 1,000 degrees. The burn injury protection report shows how well the clothing held up.
NC State researchers created the labs and the methods to test protective clothing. They also created the sensors. Pyroman consists of copper slug calorimeters. They measure how your skin feels when exposed to flame.
High-performance textile clothing protects firefighters, military personnel, and industrial workers from injuries. Researchers aim to protect first responders from heat, fire toxins, and biological agents.
Importance of high-performance tests in Textiles
Evaluating Fabric Comfort, Strength, and Performance
In today’s world of technical textiles, there are so many different fibers and fabrics. Researchers can study various types of fabrics. They choose the best fiber for creating high-performance textiles.
A manufacturer can find out if your favorite fabric feels scratchy. They use a surface tester to measure the fabric’s surface friction and roughness.
A test measures a fabric’s resistance. This demonstrates the effortless stretching, recovering, and tearing of the material.
Are you concerned about how soft and comfortable a fabric is? There is a device to test the ease of fabric deformation. It checks the ease of fabric compression and the quality of its recovery.
Fabric Softness and Comfort Test
The advanced textile labs feature environmental chambers. Researchers use them to examine how clothing impacts humans. The environmental chambers simulate different environments. For example, they can heat up to fire conditions.
Manikins with sensors check how well the clothing works. But testing isn’t always high-tech. Sensors have their limits.
Global Textile testing labs check how durable fabrics are and how they perform. They help keep quality in check for cotton fabrics and technical textiles alike.
Why should manufacturers, testing agencies, and brands know about Global textile testing standards?
Why should manufacturers, testing agencies, and brands know about Global textile testing standards?
Testing checks if a system or its parts meet the required standards. Textile testing is the term for tests that look at and measure textile properties.
Textile testing helps manufacturers choose the right raw materials. It also ensures quality control during production. Plus, it provides useful insights for creating new types of textiles.
Knowing Global textile testing standards helps manufacturers, testing agencies, and brands. It allows them to create products that meet customer needs. This way, they ensure compliance with regulations in different regions.
Global Textile testing standards come from international groups like ISO, AATCC, ASTM, and OEKO-TEX. They give standard guidelines for testing the different aspects of the textile.
1. Ensuring Product Quality and Performance
The Global textile testing standards’ guidelines ensure the consistent quality of production. There are many standards on different aspects of textiles. The ISO 105 series checks how well materials resist washing, rubbing, and perspiration.
The ISO 12947 series tests a fabric’s abrasion resistance. It uses the Martindale method. AATCC 135 and 150 standards check how fabrics, clothes, and home washing affect size.
2. Regulatory Compliance and Market Access
Textile companies must follow global textile testing rules to expand into new countries. Below are well-known regulations.
EU REACH Regulation
It sets the rules for hazardous chemicals in textiles. This includes phthalates and heavy metals.
US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
It talks about the risks of flammability and the limits on lead and phthalates in baby clothes.
3. Regulatory Compliance and Market Access
When trusted sources check a product, it boosts customer trust in how safe and high-quality it is. The famous certifications are below.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Its certificate ensures that the product is free from toxic substances.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
This authority ensures that the global textile product consists only of pure organic materials.
4. Facilitating International Trade and Market Expansion
Experts recognize standard testing methods across the globe. They lower trade barriers by ensuring quality standards. ISO standards allow manufacturers to meet compliance with many countries.
Waterproofing Test Standards for Fabrics
The waterproofing test standard checks how well the fabric can resist water pressure. It measures until water starts to seep through. This test checks how waterproof fabric is for jackets, tents, and footwear.
Waterproofing Test Tester: Hydrostatic Head Tester
The most widely used standards for waterproofing are ISO 811 and AATCC 127. EN 20811 is a European standard. It is similar to ISO 811. This standard tests textile materials for water penetration resistance.
These standards use water’s hydrostatic head. They differ in how they test, the equipment they use, and where they adopt them. Let us take a look at these test standards.
1. ISO 811 Hydrostatic Pressure Test
ISO sets the rules for testing fabric water resistance. We measure this with hydrostatic head pressure. The ISO 811 standard is for all textiles, whether they are water-repellent or not.
In this test, the tester holds the fabric sample with the checked side facing their head. For example, if a fabric has a water-repellent finish on one side, we test it by placing that side in water.
The hydrostatic pressure rises slowly. When it hits the required hydrostatic head, we check for any water seepage.
If there are three seepages, we note the hydrostatic head value. Then, we mention the water leakage in the report. The largest water pressure that prevents leaks is the fabric’s resistance to water.
2. AATCC 127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test Textile
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) tells how to test textiles. This procedure checks how well a fabric resists water penetration. The AATCC 127 standard is like ISO 811.
In this test, we use the same procedure. We place coated fabric on the water head. It must withstand the rising water pressure. The operator monitors the fabric’s behavior and water leakage during the test.
The standard measures how well rainwear and outerwear perform in heavy rain.
3. EN 20811 is equivalent to ISO 811 (Europe)
In Europe, testers follow the EN 20811 standard. This measures how well textiles resist water. It examines their performance under increasing water pressure. European countries also use it, like ISO 81.1, to find textiles’ water resistance.
This standard is also applicable to all types of fabrics, coated or non-coated. This standard sees frequent use in Europe. It ensures that fabrics for jackets, tents, and protective clothing are waterproof.
Key Differences Between ISO 811, AATCC 127, and EN 20811
The ISO 811, AATCC 127, and EN 20811 tests how well fabrics resist water. But they have some differences.
The differences are in how we test water pressure, fix samples, raise the water column, and cut samples.
1. Water Pressure Application Method
The ISO 811 and AATCC 127 standards let us apply water from above or below the fabric sample. In AATCC 127, water pressure comes from below the specimen. We then check for leakage on the top side.
The EN 20811 standard is like ISO 811. It allows us to apply water from above or below the fabric sample. They slowly increase the pressure until water seeps in at three different points.
2. Sample Fixation Method
In the ISO 811 test, testers tightly clamp the fabric edges. This prevents water from leaking. The tight clamp keeps water in the tester’s head. This way, it will not go around the fabric during the test.
The tester places the fabric sample in the AATCC 127 test method without stretching. It allows the fabric to expand naturally under water pressure.
In EN 20811, the technician clamps the fabric sample. This method helps prevent water from seeping at the edges. It helps get accurate results for the hydrostatic value.
3. Water Column Rising Speed
The standards ISO 811 and AATCC 127 increase the water column pressure at a rate of 60 ± 3 cm/min. In EN 20811, they steadily increase the water pressure at a specified rate of 60 ± 3 cm/min according to ISO 811.
4. Sample Cutting Requirements
Cut the fabric specimen to 100 cm². Take at least five samples from different spots on the fabric. Follow the ISO 811 testing standard. Someone cuts the 20 cm x 20 cm fabric sample for the AATCC 127 standard.
The EN 20811 standard is almost like ISO 811. The technician applies pressure on the fabric specimen’s surface area of 100 cm².
What organizations most often use standards for waterproof jackets, tents, and shoe materials?
The ISO 811 is the most common standard for testing waterproof fabrics. It is used for jackets, tents, and shoe materials. It is a global standard. People know it for its precise and consistent methods.
How to Choose the Right Waterproofing Test Standard?
The best waterproofing test standard depends on your market, local laws, and brand needs. If you want to export to Europe, then use ISO 811 or EN 20811. For the United States and Canada, you should work on the AATCC 127 standard.
The Asian region and Japan, as well as South Korea, also follow ISO standards. Manufacturers globally use ISO 811 for waterproofing textiles in technical markets.
Wash Fastness Test Standards (Durability of Color and Finishes)
The wash durability test checks how well fabrics resist color bleeding and fading. It tests textiles after several washings.
Most Common Wash Fastness Standards
ISO 105-C06, AATCC 61, and ISO 6330 / AATCC 135 are popular wash fastness standards. They apply to both commercial and home laundering. Let’s see the comparison of ISO 105-C06 and AATCC 61.
ISO 105-C06 – Color fastness to domestic and commercial laundering
The test checks how well reactive dyes hold their color on fabric. It follows the ISO 105-C06 standard. It is a simulation of domestic and commercial laundering. In this test, we cut 0.1 g of dyed or printed fabric and 1 g of white cotton, both of the same size.
We take the liquor ratio as 1:50 and perform the test at 60 °C for 30 minutes. Next, the color bleeding result will appear on white cotton, rated using the gray scale.
AATCC 61 – Colorfastness to Laundering
This standard checks how well reactive, disperse, sulfur, acidic, and basic dyes hold up to washing. AATCC 61 simulates the accelerated home or commercial laundering. In this test, the specimen has to face thermal, mechanical, and chemical actions.
The technician tests at 60 °C for 45 minutes. The liquor ratio is 1:50. They add 50 steel balls, each 6 mm in diameter. A multifiber attaches the specimen to evaluate the staining.
ISO 6330 / AATCC 135 – This standard simulates household washing programs. Researchers use it for post-treatment testing.
The ISO 6330 is the simulation of actual household laundering in Europe. It includes the washing and drying methods. For washing machines, there are two types of machines used: front-load and top-load. We keep the water hardness at 2.5 mmol/L.
For drying, we use line, flat, or tumble-drying methods. The drying temperature range is 30°C, 40°C, 60°C, and 95°C.
The AATCC 135 standard helps in the U.S. to check wash colorfastness. It does this after several home laundering cycles. For this test, we use a top-loading washing machine.
We keep the water temperature at 40°C or 60°C, and we use AATCC standard detergent. The fabric dries through tumble or line drying.
Comparison: ISO vs AATCC Wash Fastness Standards
ISO and AATCC have standard methods for wash fastness testing. Still, their approaches vary. They differ in how often they wash, the type of wash program, water temperature, and the force they use.
This difference in parameters can affect the durability of finishes. It may also impact water repellency and flame-retardant treatments.
1. Washing Frequency & Cycles
The ISO standard gives a simulation of a single or a few washing cycles. It mainly aligns with the European domestic laundering method. At the same time, AATCC gives a simulation of multiple laundering cycles with steel balls. The designers specifically designed it for the American washing method.
2. Washing Programs
The ISO standard covers front-load washing machines. These machines have specific spin levels. They also provide a gentler wash compared to the AATCC standard. The Launder-o-meter uses steel balls for more mechanical agitation in the AATCC standard.
3. Water Temperature
The ISO standard uses water temperatures of 40°C, 60°C, and 95°C based on its test code. In contrast, AATCC uses 41°C to 60°C, focusing on the American washing method.
Impact on Functional Finishes (Splash Prevention)
The AATCC standard is a tougher test than the ISO standard. It uses high mechanical agitation and steel balls, which can damage special finishes.
The ISO standard provides gentle agitation. This method has a minor effect on DWR (durable water repellent), splash resistance, and anti-microbial coatings. A special finish sample may sustain 10 ISO washes but will not sustain more than 5 washes tested in AATCC.
Why Wash Fastness Matters for Performance Textiles?
Color fastness to washing matters for performance textiles. After many washes, special finishes may fade due to wear. For example, in the durable water repellency test, the finish effect decreases by 50–60% after 5 to 10 washes.
Antibacterial finishes can lose 30–60% of their effectiveness after over 5 washes. Elastomeric soft finishes fade after several washes. This makes the fabric feel rough, which can disappoint customers in the long run.
Air Permeability Test Standards
Air permeability is how much air can get through the fabric in a given area at a set pressure difference. The most recognized air permeability test standards are ISO 9237, ASTM D737, and GB/T 5453.
Let’s see the air permeability test standards ISO 9237 vs ASTM D737, and key differences in Air Permeability Testing Methods.
ISO 9237 – Air Permeability under Specified Pressure Difference
This standard measures how air flows through a fabric. It uses a 20 cm² surface area and a pressure difference of 100 Pa. Its units are mm/s or cm³/cm²/s. This standard serves technical textiles, geotextiles, and industrial fabrics.
ASTM D737 – Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
The ASTM D737 test measures the rate of airflow through fabric. It tests a 38 cm² area under a pressure difference of 125 Pa.
Its units are ft³/min/ft² (CFM) or cm³/cm²/s. This standard mainly applies to home textiles and nonwoven products in America.
GB/T 5453 – Chinese Standard Equal to ISO 9237
It is a Chinese air permeability standard for textiles, which is equal to ISO 9237. Airflow goes through a 20 cm² area of fabric at a pressure difference of 100 Pa. Its units are mm/s or L/m²/s. They use it for evaluating Chinese domestic textile products.
Applications of Air Permeability in Various Industries
Air permeability plays an important role in the comfort level of textiles. It ensures the fabric breathes well. This is important in many industries based on the type of work.
1. Medical Textiles
Textile airflow testing is essential for surgical gowns, drapes, and wound dressings. It helps air flow, which speeds up wound drying. It also prevents heat buildup and lowers infection risk.
Nonwoven gowns let air through but block fluids and germs. They provide bacterial filtration efficiency (BFE) and fluid resistance.
2. Protective Clothing
Air permeability is essential for firefighting suits, chemical protective gear, and military uniforms. It allows air to pass through them without disturbing the barrier protection.
Firefighter suits let some air in. This helps keep the body temperature right while still blocking flames and heat.
3. Sports and Performance Apparel
Sportswear, athletic wear, outdoor gear, and shoe linings need to breathe well for intense exercise. Running jackets let air flow through to keep body temperature stable and resist the wind.
4. Automotive Textiles
Car seat covers, headliners, and airbag fabric ensure air permeability. The airbag plays an important role in the driver’s safety. It remains airtight in static conditions and ruptures under dynamic pressure.
5. Industrial and Filtration Textiles
The air permeability plays an important role in filter fabrics and geotextiles. It controls the filtration efficiency, pressure drop, and particle retention. In the steel and cement industries, dust collectors let air flow but block dust particles.
Important Clarification: Air Permeability ≠ Vapor Permeability
Air permeability indicates the ease with which air moves through the fabric. Vapor permeability refers to the flow of water vapor from the fabric’s surface.
These terms differ, and researchers test them differently. But both are important for fabric breathability.
Air Permeability and Hydrostatic Pressure Balance
Outdoor gear, military uniforms, and high-performance rainwear control airflow and water pressure.
For example, researchers test Gore-Tex fabric for breathability. This test keeps things comfortable and checks how well it stands up to water pressure.
Conclusion
Waterproofing, wash fastness, and air permeability are vital for today’s high-performance textiles. These parameters influence product quality, fabric comfort level, and user acceptance.
Waterproofing creates a barrier against moisture and water vapor. This is important for outdoor, protective, and medical uses. Wash fastness ensures that the fabric keeps its color after many washes. This helps maintain the fabric’s appearance.
Air permeability helps the fabric breathe, which keeps it comfortable and regulates temperature. This is vital for sportswear, military uniforms, and protective gear.
To get test results accepted worldwide, you should choose the right global textile testing standards. This choice should match the needs of the exporting country or brand. For example, America uses AATCC, and Europe and the globe follow ISO standards.
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FAQs
What is the difference between ISO and AATCC?
ISO is short for the International Organization for Standardization. People recognize its standards around the world. AATCC stands for the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. The designers created their standards for America.
Which test method do Nike, Patagonia, and Uniqlo use?
Nike, Patagonia, and Uniqlo use the combination of ISO, ASTM, and AATCC standards. For air permeability, they use ASTM D737 for the American market and ISO 9237 for the European market.
Is ASTM D737 applicable to nonwoven fabrics?
Yes, it applies to nonwoven fabrics. It has extensive applications in medicine and demonstrates effectiveness for industrial filters.